The sustainable fashion movement originated in the 1960s and is closely tied to the modern environmental movement. Rachel Carson's book, Silent Spring, exposed the serious and widespread pollution associated with the use of agricultural chemicals. In the early 1990s, coinciding with the Rio Earth Summit, 'green issues' made their way into fashion and textiles publications. Companies like Patagonia and ESPRIT commissioned research into the impact of fibres used in their respective companies, leading to a primary focus on materials' provenance, impact and selection, fibre and fabric processing, which remains a norm in sustainable fashion today. The principles of 'green' or 'eco' fashion are based on the philosophy of deep ecologists and design theorist Victor Papanek. In parallel with industry, research around sustainable fashion has been in development since the early 1990s, with the field now having its own history, dynamics, politics, practices, sub-movements and evolution of analytical and critical language. The Union for Concerned Researchers in Fashion (UCRF) was formed in 2019 to advocate for radical and coordinated research activity commensurate with the challenges of biodiversity loss and climate change.